St. Cyprien Sunday Market: If you are lucky enough to be here on a Sunday morning you must make an effort to visit the towns Sunday market, trust me on this! The entire length of the main street (Rue Gambetta) is closed off for innumerable market stalls that sell anything and everything. Dont forget to take your own bags though, most merchants dont use plastic bags anymore.
It starts just before 10am and finishes around 1pm, but get there early as things sell out fast! There will be a mountain of farm fresh locally produced fruits, veggies, cheese, wine, meats, sausages, pate, truffles, etc, etc, etc.
Our local wine region is called ‘Perchamont’ and there are several estates producing it, make sure to try some. Also of course some of the Bordeaux wines are cheaper than water, and we seldom pay more than a few euros for a bottle…admittedly some are a bit rougher than others.
The Carrefour (supermarket at the edge of town) usually has some bottles featured on special sale, and they are normally excellent, even at 2 or 3 euros or so a bottle. There is also a Carrefour Express in town which closes one hour later than the main supermarket, which can be a life saver if you arent paying attention to the time. As much as possible we try to use the local shops on rue Gambetta, such as the local wine merchant, bakeries, butcher's shop etc, to support local merchants and keep the town centre alive and active.
At the house we have a small bistro table, chairs and umbrella on the terrace, which makes a great place to sit out and sample local wines and cheese.
Places to eat in St. Cyprien
This summer we did an unofficial count of the restaurants and eateries just in St. Cyprien itself and counted more than a dozen, so there is no shortage of places to eat just a few minutes walk from the house.
The Taverne Restaurant right next to the town’s fountain is great value and has room for infants. The ham/cheese omelettes and the pasta Carbenera are really good, as are the 8 euro pizzas (makes a good take away dinner if you dont want to make anything yourself)
There is a new pasta place opened up just across from the Cathedral up the hill behind us, you cant miss it….food is great, and fantastic views over the town and down the valley.
Le Chai, is a very nice restaurant on rue Gambetta but it also has a large ‘hidden courtyard’ located in behind the large wooden gates which is a nice place to sit and enjoy a meal. It is just across the street for The Taverne (and the fountain).
Sesame’s is a vegetarian restaurant on the main street (Rue Gambetta) which we have heard many good things about from friends and guests
I would also highly recommend getting up early and walking along main street to one of the two bakeries (patisseries) for oven fresh bread, croissants, tarts, etc.
One is about half way along main street on the left...the other (which some people say is better) you go to the far end of main street and turn right at the gas station...its about a 100 ft down the hill on the right (cant miss it, probably see people lined up outside...as yes, it is that good)
Marché Gourmand: If you are fortunate enough to be in St. Cyprien during July or August, you can take advantage of the weekly Marche Gourmand, which is held on Thursday evenings. Basically its a large outdoor picnic organized by the village mayor. A stage, long tables and chairs are set out at eastern end of rue Gambetta (in the parking lot of the school). Local food and wine vendors set up stalls along the perimeter and everyone, local and tourists alike are invited to come bring or buy food and/drink and sit down at the communal tables. This is a great way to meet locals and visitors alike. A live band is usually present and dancing is encouraged. It is very pleasant way to spend a summers evening!
Almost every village in the region holds a Marche Gourmand night once a week during the summer, so you can visit other villages and see how they do it. One of our favorites is held on Saturday nights in the tiny hamlet of Audrix which is in the hills above St. Cyprien. The larger, nearby town of Belves has an excellent one too held also on Saturday nights.
Note: To cut down on trash it is recommended that you bring your own plates, cutlery and even wine glasses to Gourmand nights. We (try) to maintain a picnic basket in the house with supplies for just this purpose.